![]() ![]() There is another dowel pin near the top front mounting bolt. I suppose salt water can wick into the cracks. This frozen pin was just a few inches from the previously-mentioned frozen bolt there was no obvious reason for the corrosion. I eventually got it loose with a big hammer and a screwdriver with just the right amount of taper to force a small crack open. After a lot of struggle I discovered that there was a frozen/corroded dowel pin between engine and transaxle just below the two mounting bolts on the back side. With the 6 bolts out, I was able to pry open a gap about 1/2 inch on the front side, but the back stayed mysteriously closed up. Later I found that that the end of that bolt passes all the way through the transaxle housing, so I could have hit the other end with some Liquid Wrench. I was able to cut off the head with a Dremel tool and an EZ cutoff wheel. One of them, the upper one on the back side, loosened a few turns and then got harder and harder to turn until I could no longer move it, even with an impact wrench. There are 6 bolts holding the transaxle to the engine (in addition to the two starter bolts). It would have been a good idea to use some Liquid Wrench everywhere, even when using an impact wrench, to help prevent spinning the studs. I was able to swing it enough to get the transaxle out with its half of the engine mount still bolted to it. The "head" of one of the rear mounting studs, whose nut is recessed into the the crossmember, broke free and started to spin when the nut was about half way off, so I never got the mount off completely. I loosened the rear mount by taking off all six bolts and nuts connecting it to the frame, so it would wiggle in place. I removed the long pivot bolt from the rear mount, working from the driver-side wheel well using about 2 feet of socket extension. It looked impossible to remove the 3 bolts holding the rear mount to the transaxle. It would not come out because one stud passes through it, but it was probably helpful to be able to swing it out of the way. I also took the bolts out of the crossmember that runs front to back. I removed the front engine/transaxle mount in one piece, and the left mount in two pieces after removing the long pivot bolt. A friend of mine recently had a car fall on him-not a pretty picture. Be careful not to pull too much and pull the car off the jack stands! I also put some extra shoring under the car in case something like this happened. This was helpful to fine-tune the engine position when I was about to drop the transaxle. I supported the engine with a come-along attached to a sturdy support beam and a chain attached to two bolts threaded into the cylinder head. Both sides had snap rings and were very tight. For the right side I used the "crossbar" that goes front to back for leverage, and the same heavy pry bar. I got the left driveshaft out of the differential with a heavy (3/4 inch diameter) pry bar using one of the differential bolts as a fulcrum, plus a 3-pound hammer. (I'm talking about the "upside-down U" clips on the bracket, not the cotter-pin-like clips.)Īt the wheels, I removed the axle bolt and the 3 bolts from the ball joint, and the driveshafts came right out. First twist to break the corrosion, then pull up. The clips that hold the shift cables to their bracket came off easily by spraying with Liquid Wrench and then clamping the top 1/4 inch that is bent over with 6 inch Vise Grips. This time I used a Fidanza 2.1 ( ) Let's hope it lasts longer. I just put in the third replacement clutch in our 2005 Matrix which has about 98000 miles. Once those clips come off, the lines will be free of the transmission. You can reach in with a Large flat blade screw driver and twist the retainer clips free from the bracket. The bracket holding both cables is not something to be removed while in the car. The pins come out by hand with little force. you can reach in to work on them easily from the drivers side wheel well. If you lined up the clip properly you will be greeted with a comforting pop of them locking back in.for people having trouble with the shift cables. The boot is metal and can take some soft hits with ease. ![]() Use a dead-blow hammer or hit against a block of wood to pop them back in. Only other annoying part is the rear engine mount designed by a MORON.when reinstalling them, make sure that the gap of the spring clip is facing down so it won't bind on reinsertion. that size channel locks for a leverage point and a pry bar against them. Judging from other posts, I still have more surprises to come.that is what we used. So far this car has been bullet proof, but I'm starting to question Toyota's design process. Quote, originally posted by tiiguy »Yeah, finally got em off, but I needed 16" Channel Locks to do it. ![]()
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